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first one is my favorite and you can weave braid or I-Cord
through to tie in a pretty bow at the junction of the “V”.
These necklines are my own invention, but have probably been
thought of by others in the past. Try just sitting down and
moving stitches in with variations and you’ll be able
to create your own special “V” Neck Embellishments!
Use
these RAGLAN decreases for more than just sleeve decreases!
They also make great v-neck embellishments that are finished
as you knit your “V”. Check out any Raglan Sweater
patterns you have in your ‘stash’ and see if
they will make a nice “V” Neck embellishment.
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#1
= Inset Eyelet Half-Cables:
•
Knit to where you start your raglan decreases.
• Numbering from the outside edge, move 1-2-3-4 over
to 4-5-6-7.
• You have double stitches on needles 5-6-7.
• Move stitches on needles 4-5-6-7 BACK out to be
on needles 3-4-5-6.
• Leave needle #7 empty, but in working position.
Knit 4 rows.
• Repeat.
This
is a really nice edge that lays flat all by itself. Be sure
to use the sequence of the needle/stitch movement as described
above. This helps it lay flat.
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#2
Cables:
This
one is when you want to decrease every other row and yet
have a bit of cable for added dimension as well. Knit to
where you want to start your raglan decrease.
•
*Move #6 to #7, then you move #'s 1-2-3-4-5 in to fill up
the empty needle.
• Knit 2 rows. Repeat 3 more times. (You should be
on RC8 of your RAGLAN patterning – NOT your garment.)
• On the next row, (8th row) retain the patterning
as above but ALSO do a cable twist with the following needles
once you've moved them in to fill the empty needle:
• #2 & #3 cable twist with #4 & #5.
Repeat
from * until you have completed the necessary decreases
according to your garment’s pattern. It's advisable
to work out the math of how many rows you will have for
the entire decreasing to make sure the cables will look
good on the piece. These DO lay down well, depending on
the sequence of your cabling (left over right or right over
left). Make LOTS of test swatches. You’ll be glad
you did.
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#
3 Loop Edge:
Good
for crochet since your loops are evenly spaced and not so
difficult to determine as with plain knitting! DO REMEMBER
that these loops are a SINGLE strand of yarn so don’t
put too much strain on that poor little loop if you crochet
an edge.
• Move stitches 1 & 2 to 3 & 4
• Pull needle #2 back into work. CHECK LATCH!!
• Knit 2 rows.
Gentle steaming is all I’ve ever needed to make this
edging lay flat, even without any crochet work.
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#4
Eyelet Edge Half-Cable:
Good
for weaving narrow I-Cord, soutache or other braids, even
lightweight rope chains!!
4
rows between stitch patterning.
• Move stitches 1 & 2 to 3 & 4.
• Move stitches on needle 3 to needle 2
• Pull out empty needle 3 back into work. CHECK LATCH!
• Knit 4 rows
This
somewhat resembles a worm edge.
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#5
2-Stitch Cable:
Move
stitch 2 to 1
Move stitches on needle 1 back to 2 (2 st on needle)
Cable #3 and #4
Knit either 2 or 4 rows as desired.
Cabling
3 to 4 then 4 to 3 will have a different dimensional look
than if you did 4 to 3 and THEN 3 to 4. Make some test swatches.
You’ll see what we mean. The transfer sequence can
determine how well your ‘v’ neck will lay flat.
The ones I have in this series all stayed pretty flat with
little or no steaming. Remember that your carriage and mast
tension can have an effect on this, depending on the yarn
you use. A rather ‘spongy’ yarn is apt to pull
in and cause the ‘v’ to roll.
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