“V” Neck Raglan Embellishments
By Marge Parker

This first one is my favorite and you can weave braid or I-Cord through to tie in a pretty bow at the junction of the “V”. These necklines are my own invention, but have probably been thought of by others in the past. Try just sitting down and moving stitches in with variations and you’ll be able to create your own special “V” Neck Embellishments!

Use these RAGLAN decreases for more than just sleeve decreases! They also make great v-neck embellishments that are finished as you knit your “V”. Check out any Raglan Sweater patterns you have in your ‘stash’ and see if they will make a nice “V” Neck embellishment.

#1 = Inset Eyelet Half-Cables:

• Knit to where you start your raglan decreases.
• Numbering from the outside edge, move 1-2-3-4 over to 4-5-6-7.
• You have double stitches on needles 5-6-7.
• Move stitches on needles 4-5-6-7 BACK out to be on needles 3-4-5-6.
• Leave needle #7 empty, but in working position. Knit 4 rows.
• Repeat.

This is a really nice edge that lays flat all by itself. Be sure to use the sequence of the needle/stitch movement as described above. This helps it lay flat.

#2 Cables:

This one is when you want to decrease every other row and yet have a bit of cable for added dimension as well. Knit to where you want to start your raglan decrease.

• *Move #6 to #7, then you move #'s 1-2-3-4-5 in to fill up the empty needle.
• Knit 2 rows. Repeat 3 more times. (You should be on RC8 of your RAGLAN patterning – NOT your garment.)
• On the next row, (8th row) retain the patterning as above but ALSO do a cable twist with the following needles once you've moved them in to fill the empty needle:
• #2 & #3 cable twist with #4 & #5.

Repeat from * until you have completed the necessary decreases according to your garment’s pattern. It's advisable to work out the math of how many rows you will have for the entire decreasing to make sure the cables will look good on the piece. These DO lay down well, depending on the sequence of your cabling (left over right or right over left). Make LOTS of test swatches. You’ll be glad you did.


# 3 Loop Edge:

Good for crochet since your loops are evenly spaced and not so difficult to determine as with plain knitting! DO REMEMBER that these loops are a SINGLE strand of yarn so don’t put too much strain on that poor little loop if you crochet an edge.
• Move stitches 1 & 2 to 3 & 4
• Pull needle #2 back into work. CHECK LATCH!!
• Knit 2 rows.
Gentle steaming is all I’ve ever needed to make this edging lay flat, even without any crochet work.



#4 Eyelet Edge Half-Cable:

Good for weaving narrow I-Cord, soutache or other braids, even lightweight rope chains!!

4 rows between stitch patterning.
• Move stitches 1 & 2 to 3 & 4.
• Move stitches on needle 3 to needle 2
• Pull out empty needle 3 back into work. CHECK LATCH!
• Knit 4 rows

This somewhat resembles a worm edge.

#5 2-Stitch Cable:

Move stitch 2 to 1
Move stitches on needle 1 back to 2 (2 st on needle)
Cable #3 and #4
Knit either 2 or 4 rows as desired.

Cabling 3 to 4 then 4 to 3 will have a different dimensional look than if you did 4 to 3 and THEN 3 to 4. Make some test swatches. You’ll see what we mean. The transfer sequence can determine how well your ‘v’ neck will lay flat. The ones I have in this series all stayed pretty flat with little or no steaming. Remember that your carriage and mast tension can have an effect on this, depending on the yarn you use. A rather ‘spongy’ yarn is apt to pull in and cause the ‘v’ to roll.

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