Using Ravel Cord
is my favorite neckline to use for our family sweaters. It's quick,
very easy to do and I don't have to fiddle with attaching the ribbed
band after I take the work off the machine. I'm not particularly a fan
of the Commercial Neckline look. I want the home-made look to my family
sweaters and I feel this one is a very good neckline. I prefer to use
the double-stitch latching on these since it gives it a bit of a different
look rather than plain ribbing.
We have a child's quick-knit sweater in this issue and it uses this
ribbing on the bottom, sleeves and of course, the neckline. It's a standard
pattern I've used for years since I first began converting hand-knit
once I got my first knitting machine. I used to use this pattern for
all my kids hand-knit sweaters many-many moons ago. Guess I'm too much
of a fuddy-duddy, but when I find a pattern I like, I just keep on using
it to death.
Our sample is made with Mary Lou's Solo yarn on a Brother Standard Gauge
machine. It is knit at T:7.
Now let's knit this neckline!!
our sample in the picture above, we cast on 80 stitches.
30 rows or so and have the carriage at the RIGHT of your machine.
off the middle 14 stitches onto ravel cord. (see picture below)
the stitches at the left of your machine into hold and don't forget
to flip on the hold feature! (I've been known to do that)
2 rows on the right set of 32 stitches.
off 1 stitch at the neckline edge.*
from * to * until you have 20 stitches remaining in work on your machine.
8 rows (watch your weights and any stitches that may want to commit
suicide on the neck edge).
off your work (see picture below).
carriage over to the left side of your machine.
machine off hold.
again from * to * reversing shaping until you have only 20 stitches
on the machine in work.
that shoulder off as well.
the how-to pics below.
ravel cord and re-hang the stitches back onto your machine.
the side stitches (of those 8 rows before scrapping off).
a good look at the neckline edge. If you've used too much weight near
the portion where you begin adding additional stitches to the ravel
cords and you see a noticeable gap there, snag the purl bar from the
stitch next to it and hang that onto the needle. I did this in our sample
and also at the point where I knit the 8 rows before scrapping. Some
don't bother, but I like it better with that purl bar addition.
the sample, I now have 52 stitches on my machine. Because of how I ended,
my carriage is now on the left of the machine.
all the needles out to "E" position ("D" on Studio)
your machine with main yarn and also with the ravel cord. Change to
1 row across to right, drop ravel cord from carriage. I use this as
my marker row for latching up the rib. If you don't need to, then don't
bother. My bifocals drive me nuts sometimes so I need that extra bit
2 rows. Reduce tension 2 clicks
this until you are down to T:5.2.
at left edge, ravel down the 4th stitch to the ravel cord marker. Latch
up one, then latch up two at a time to the top. Skip 3 stitches, repeat
the ravel down and latching up sequence across the work. SEW work off
machine from right to left.
for some how-to pics ...
This photo is how it looks from the purl side. I like the lacy effect
of the double-up latching. It looks especially nice on little girls knits
when you have some lace or textured stitches in the main body of the work.
In the two pictures below, I wanted
to show you how this type of neck band has plenty of stretch and easily
snaps back into place. All I did was pull it out and let it go. I didn't
pat-down nor steam the work at all. It went back all by itself. Great
for kiddie clothing!