Quick-Rib Neckline
Using Ravel Cord

This is my favorite neckline to use for our family sweaters. It's quick, very easy to do and I don't have to fiddle with attaching the ribbed band after I take the work off the machine. I'm not particularly a fan of the Commercial Neckline look. I want the home-made look to my family sweaters and I feel this one is a very good neckline. I prefer to use the double-stitch latching on these since it gives it a bit of a different look rather than plain ribbing.

We have a child's quick-knit sweater in this issue and it uses this ribbing on the bottom, sleeves and of course, the neckline. It's a standard pattern I've used for years since I first began converting hand-knit once I got my first knitting machine. I used to use this pattern for all my kids hand-knit sweaters many-many moons ago. Guess I'm too much of a fuddy-duddy, but when I find a pattern I like, I just keep on using it to death.

Our sample is made with Mary Lou's Solo yarn on a Brother Standard Gauge machine. It is knit at T:7.

Now let's knit this neckline!!

  • For our sample in the picture above, we cast on 80 stitches.
  • Knit 30 rows or so and have the carriage at the RIGHT of your machine.
  • Take off the middle 14 stitches onto ravel cord. (see picture below)
  • Pull the stitches at the left of your machine into hold and don't forget to flip on the hold feature! (I've been known to do that)
  • *Knit 2 rows on the right set of 32 stitches.
  • Ravel off 1 stitch at the neckline edge.*
  • Repeat from * to * until you have 20 stitches remaining in work on your machine.
  • Knit 8 rows (watch your weights and any stitches that may want to commit suicide on the neck edge).
  • Scrap off your work (see picture below).
  • Move carriage over to the left side of your machine.
  • Take machine off hold.
  • Repeat again from * to * reversing shaping until you have only 20 stitches on the machine in work.
  • Scrap that shoulder off as well.
  • See the how-to pics below.
  • Pull ravel cord and re-hang the stitches back onto your machine.
  • Add the side stitches (of those 8 rows before scrapping off).
  • Take a good look at the neckline edge. If you've used too much weight near the portion where you begin adding additional stitches to the ravel cords and you see a noticeable gap there, snag the purl bar from the stitch next to it and hang that onto the needle. I did this in our sample and also at the point where I knit the 8 rows before scrapping. Some don't bother, but I like it better with that purl bar addition.
  • In the sample, I now have 52 stitches on my machine. Because of how I ended, my carriage is now on the left of the machine.
  • Pull all the needles out to "E" position ("D" on Studio)
  • Rethread your machine with main yarn and also with the ravel cord. Change to T:9
  • Knit 1 row across to right, drop ravel cord from carriage. I use this as my marker row for latching up the rib. If you don't need to, then don't bother. My bifocals drive me nuts sometimes so I need that extra bit of help.
  • Knit 2 rows. Reduce tension 2 clicks
  • Repeat this until you are down to T:5.2.
  • Beginning at left edge, ravel down the 4th stitch to the ravel cord marker. Latch up one, then latch up two at a time to the top. Skip 3 stitches, repeat the ravel down and latching up sequence across the work. SEW work off machine from right to left.

Now for some how-to pics ...

This photo is how it looks from the purl side. I like the lacy effect of the double-up latching. It looks especially nice on little girls knits when you have some lace or textured stitches in the main body of the work.

In the two pictures below, I wanted to show you how this type of neck band has plenty of stretch and easily snaps back into place. All I did was pull it out and let it go. I didn't pat-down nor steam the work at all. It went back all by itself. Great for kiddie clothing!

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